I had just spent a day in the bright sunshine of Guam, snorkeling in the Philippine Sea and hiking to a remote waterfall. I felt far away from Japan, especially as I sat down in a well-worn booth and ordered a medium rare steak with mashed potatoes.
“Would you like the soup of the day or a salad?” asked the friendly waitress, her pen posed to jot down my response. But instead of words, I involuntarily found myself tilting my head, sucking in air through my teeth, and looking off into the distance as I considered my options. Read more